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SBL Surgery
- Opening an SBL Blythe usually requires sawing the dome. Some of
the newer SBLs have been known to come apart with soaking and applying
pressure, but I am not going to talk about that method, as it has very
rarely worked for me. I also believe that you have a greater
chance of causing stress cracks and lines on the face plates using that
method. |
You should have the
following tools at hand ~
- Saw
- Small Individual saw
blade
- Flat head screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers *
may not need, depending on how easily the scalp comes off
- Crochet hook
- Phillips screwdriver
- Razor knife
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Many
times, with newer SBLs, I am able to work my way around, pulling up on the hair along the scalp line, and am able to remove
the scalp without any tools. I don't think Takara uses much glue on the
newer dolls. However, there are still times when this method will not
work, especially on the older SBL blythes, such as PWP, SSD, etc. In
those cases, I pull up on the scalp along the sides and back until I
find an area that will pull away even the smallest bit.
If I am not able to find
even the smallest area that will pull away from the head, I use a razor
knife and make a small slit in the center, back. Work slowly and
carefully. Cut right where the scalp meets the head plate. |
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I then use
a flat head screwdriver (with the head of the screwdriver wrapped in
masking tape to prevent sharp edges from cutting into or tearing the
scalp) and I push it in this small opening and pull up. I work my way
around the head, pulling up as I go. You need to make sure you are not
resting the shaft of the screwdriver on the plastic head plate when
prying or you will cause gouges, scratches and/or dents. So be sure to
hold the screwdriver away from the head plates. |
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If you are
lucky, your Blythe will not have a lot of glue and the flange will
come out of the gutter neat and clean. However, if your Blythe does
have a lot of glue, you may need to cut the flange a bit or work very,
very carefully to loosen the flange (using a razor knife). If some of
the flange tears away, don't be alarmed. Just try to preserve as much
as possible. If you do end up with some flange left in the gutter due
to excessive glue, you can use the needle nosed pliers to grab onto a
small piece and pull it out. Then use the razor knife to remove any
pieces that may still be glued into the gutter. The area
to be most concerned with is the area of the scalp that fits directly
up against the head. You don't want to tear or gouge this area,
because it will be visible. |
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Once you
have removed the scalp, you may need to use your razor knife to clean
away any of the flange that may have remained due to excess glue.
PLEASE BE
VERY CAREFUL. Do NOT rush. You do not want the razor to slip and
scratch or gouge your blythe's face plate. You also do not want to cut
yourself. |
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I also use
the razor knife to shave off the "grippy" knobs along the front. You
may want to try refitting your blythe's scalp back onto the head
before you do this. If the flange goes back into the gutter and you
have a good fit, you don't need to shave them off. If the flange seems
like it doesn't want to fit back into the gutter, shaving these off
will fix the problem. |
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I unhook
the spring from the plastic rod by slipping a crochet hook underneath
it and pulling up and to one side.
Then I remove the two screws from the back. |
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In order to open the head on SBL blythes,
you will have to saw thru the dome. I begin the process by using a
permanent marker and starting on one side, I put a dot in line with the
side seam of the face plates. I then continue dotting up the side
approx. 6 dots. Then I move to the other side and do the same.
Finally, I connect the dots across the top of the dome. This will
be my guideline when sawing. |
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I now use
the saw to cut thru the dome, trying to follow the guide as best I
can. |
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When I am
fairly close to reaching the gutter, I switch tools and use my small
individual saw blade to continue cutting. |
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As I begin
sawing closer to the faceplates, I protect them by placing my thumb on
the area below the saw. Yes, I realize if the saw slips, that I will
get cut and this is dangerous. But, I choose to do so because I would
rather get a cut than to damage the Blythe. If you opt to use this
method as well, please be careful. |
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Once the
dome is cut all the way to the gutter, I turn the blade at an angle
(as shown in the photo) and saw inward, to saw thru the inside
gutter/ledge of the head (you can see the piece I'm talking about if
you scroll down the page and examine the photo of the head after it's
been opened). When I have cut thru, often I'll hear a pop/crack noise
or feel it give way, I do the same for the other side. |
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Using the
flat head screwdriver, I wedge open the head so that the front and
back face plates are apart and I can see the last piece of the inside
gutter that needs to be cut. |
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Keeping
the screwdriver wedged in the head to hold it open, I use the small
individual saw blade to VERY CAREFULLY saw thru that last piece. I
work slowly because I do not want to slip and scratch/cut the
faceplates. |
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Once I cut
thru that last piece on both sides of the head, I pull the front and back
face plates apart. |
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I check
the area in the gutter where I have sawed and, using a razor knife, I
shave off any jagged or protruding pieces of plastic so that when I
put the head back together I will have a good fit. |
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